Log - 1/5/2002 to 3/18/2002
Neuvo Vallarta to Tennacatita, Mexico
(and Back to Neuvo Vallarta)
In this section Alan tells about being stuck in the Nuevo Vallarta
dockside vortex and our eventual escape to the lovely Chamela and
Tenacatita bays. In March we returned to Nuevo Vallarta for the
Banderas Bay Regatta. This long page includes the following sections:
- Paradise Village Marina
- The Work of Cruising
- Midnight Demon Attack
- Cruising Tragedies
- San Sebastian
- Cabo Corrientes
- Southeast to Chamela
- Careyes Chaos
- Tenacatita Reprieve
- Return to Nuevo Vallarta
- Banderas Bay Regatta
Paradise Village Marina
The marina at the Paradise Village resort (in Nuevo Vallarta just
north of Puerto Vallarta) is very spiffy, expensive, and filled
with costly sail and power boats. We stayed at the Paradise marina
for a week when our friend Amy, Katherine's Dad (George) and Stepmom
(Blanche) visited for a couple weeks. Beyond the human augmented
niceties of a high-end resort, Paradise Village is not a sensible
stopover for a cost conscious cruiser. The prices are high and it
is a long bus ride into Puerto Vallarta for supplies and affordable
diversions. None-the-less we enjoyed a week of decadence, meeting
other boaters, and visiting with friends, and family. Then, we moved
the boat back to the cheap, dilapidated, and funky Marina Nuevo
Vallarta for a month of boat fix-up.
The Work of Cruising
Contrary to popular belief, the cruising life is not filled with
leisure. We often spend forty hours a week, or more, simply maintaining
my floating home and ensuring that it will safely get us to our
next destination. For example, during our stay in Nuevo Vallarta
we accomplished the following boat projects:
- Changed the engine oil & filter.
- Changed the diesel fuel filters.
- Removed the fittings from the bowsprit and stripped off the
- Sanded and refinished the bowsprit with 7 coats of Cetol.
- Fixed the plumbing problems on the manual bilge pump.
- Replaced the failing wiring for the electric bilge pump.
- Had the spinnaker recut to create a drifter.
- Reconfigured the spinnaker halyard.
- Cleaned the boat bottom a few times.
- Purchased and installed a galvanic isolator.
- Cleaned out the bilges and anchor locker; repainted the anchor
chain length makers.
- Inventoried, reorganized, and resupplied food items.
- Configured a support for the anchor snubbed and drifter tack.
- Had the old anchor sandblasted and regalvanized.
- Located used dinghy landing wheels, had custom brackets created,
and installed the wheels. Created insulators to reduce wheel bracket
corrosion and reinstalled the dinghy wheels.
- Serviced the dinghy outboard and changed the gear case oil.
- Repaired the whisker pole clip and installed a trip line.
- Hauled diesel fuel from the gas station to fill the fuel tank.
- Replaced the rudder stuffing box packing material.
- Made a dinghy pontoon cover.
- Expanded and updated the squizfloats.com web site.
- Repaired the dings in the deck gel coat.
- Innumerable other small tasks that I have forgotten.
Midnight Demon Attack
For some reason Squiz was nervous and shy while moored at Paradise
Village. Unearthly yowling and hissing shattered the peacefulness
of one night. Certain that Squiz had just been filleted by demons,
we flew out of the V-berth. Something was scampering on deck and
howling and scurrying noises came from the quarter berth. Katherine
ran above deck and found Squiz huddled like a ball on the end of
the bow platform. I was left below to deal with a vicious, screaming
feline boarder crouched in the quarter berth. I looked around for
protective garb - as its fangs and spitting fury chilled my marrow.
After failing to gather enough nerve to tackle ten pounds of concentrated
feline evil, I eventually grabbed the broom; crouched behind the
navigation table for protection; and, using random thrusts of my
wimpy lance, banished the demon. The beast rocketed out of the door
and down six slips to a nearby boat - a black-hulled vessel called
"Hook". Alas, the nasty cat had the last jeer; it had
pissed and shit on the quarter berth! The demon's human servant
was very apologetic and cleaned our comforter the next day. Apparently
the adopted feral cat did not take kindly to being cooped up on
the boat. The captain of s/v Hook was frustrated by the feline's
repeated offenses, but he was stymied by the classic dilemma posed
by his mate, "If the cat goes, then I go". Hook set sail
two days later and Squiz's relaxed, easy-going demeanor returned.
The cruising life can be devastating. Recently, this region has
had a wave of cruiser tragedies:
- Captain Ron (s/v Still Crazy) had been cruising on his little
Olsen 30 for years. Ron fell asleep and was shipwrecked off Punta
Pita. The sailboat was lost; Ron made it to shore - battered but
- A Catalina developed a jammed rudder and was unable to maneuver
near the notorious Cabo Corrientes. Luckily, it was rescued by
the Mexican Navy & towed to Chamela.
- My friend Marsha (s/v She Wolf) was scuba diving at VERY remote
San Benedicto Island (about 300 miles off mainland coast); she
was hit with a dreadful case of the bends. After Marsha developed
severe paralysis, they were able to get her to Isla Socorro, where
she was airlifted to Cabo for repeated treatments in a recompression
- The Captain of s/v Forte was hit by the boom during an accidental
gybe and was knocked overboard somewhere south of Cabo Corrientes.
His wife did not know how to sail; so, Forte came ashore and was
wrecked. The husband's body was recovered a week later. The wife
is recuperating from shock and broken ribs.
- Another sailor died from a fall after a balcony collapsed.
On February 12th we piled into a large van along with some other
sailors and a local artist/guide and headed to San Sebastian, an
old silver mining town in the mountains. It took three hours on
a twisting, one-lane, dirt road to climb 30 miles into the mountains
west of the Bay of Banderas. Native Indians acquired silver from
this area since pre-Cortes. In 1890, the Mexican government permitted
foreign mining companies, the population of the San Sebastian exploded
to 22,000 people - mostly native indentured servants. Since the
infrastructure to support thousands of miners and mules was built
up during just a few years, the architecture is amazingly uniform.
After the revolution in 1910, everyone left San Sebastian and the
nearly depleted mines were closed. Today, only 450 people occupy
this eerily empty town.
Located in the transition between tropical and high-altitude forests,
the San Sebastian vegetation is especially diverse and intriguing.
Tropical bananas grow next to pine trees. Cross-pollination of nonindigenous
species has led to a hundred varieties of plant life unique to this
area; my favorite was a cross between passionfruit and eggplant.
Immediately south of the Bay of Banderas lies the notorious Cabo
Corrientes. Much like Point Conception in California, Corrientes
is a point that sticks out into the pacific and often twists the
weather to create its own nasty playground of high wind and waves.
On February 11th we were finally ready to head south to Chamela.
I received benign wind prediction via the weather fax; but, since
there was an atypical weather pattern at the Nuevo Vallarta docks,
we chose not to believe the fax. Instead we decided to go on the
two-day inland trip to San Sebastian. Just before heading to San
Sebastian our caution was validated by s/v The Great Escape. When
they checked in on the Amigo radio net, The Great Escape reported
winds up to 40 knots, with lightning, and rain while sailing around
After the San Sebastian jaunt, we finally escaped Nuevo Vallarta.
During an overnight trip we sailed around Cabo Corrientes with a
pleasant ten-knot tailwind. We had to motorsail much of the rest
of the way to Chamela; but that is much better than being caught
in the 20-30 knot winds reported by a vessel that rounded the cape
only four hours after we did.
Southeast to Chamela
The black moonless night provide a glorious backdrop for a brilliant
starry sky and the brightest bioluminescent plankton display I have
ever witnessed. One if the many passing herds of dolphins, swam
with us for a half hour. They weaved and played in our bow wave,
all the while sheathed in streamers of fairy dust comprised of excited
plankton. Disney still has a way to go to compete with mother nature.
Chamela is splendid. There are lots of places to explore for snorkeling,
a pristine beach to walk on as long as your legs can take it, and
a couple small tiendas (stores) to get very basic supplies (including
coconut water). The wind picks up almost every afternoon, so our
wind generator kept our batteries charged. Entertainment is supplied
by the pangas anchored with re-bar anchors. In the wind they occasionally
drag away form shore, and through the main anchorage, threatening
parked cruising vessels - until rescued by cruisers or other pangas.
After gathering our Zen and recuperating from civilization, we
continued southeast from Chamela to Careyes. Careyes consists of
two tiny, attractive pocket anchorages. We tried to anchor in the
sheltered north cove, which is the site of a temporarily closed
Club Med. The tight quarters necessitate use of both bow and stern
anchors to reduce the amount of swinging. After setting the stern
anchor we dropped the bow anchor, which failed to hold. After repositioning
the bow anchor, the stern anchor started dragging. While maneuvering
to set the bow anchor and avoid another boat, the stern anchor line
wrapped around the prop and killed the engine. I grabbed my mask,
hopped overboard, and freed the prop - as Katherine went ballistic
with anxious frustration. After freeing the propeller shaft, we
reset the bow anchor and had a neighboring boat redrop the stern
anchor using his dinghy. After the stern anchor failed to hold once
again, we gave up, pulled in our ground tackle, and limped out of
Careyes - frustrated and defeated.
For people interested in anchoring in the north cove of Careyes,
I make the following recommendations. Beware of the shale bottom
that is deceptively covered with thin patches of sand. Before anchoring
get your snorkeling gear, swim around, and identify where you want
to anchor or tie off. If you want to anchor, manually probe the
bottom and set your anchor. While the Club Med is closed, try tying
a line onto a Club Med mooring or their dock pilings or a rock.
Maybe a stern line could be tied off to someplace on shore.
A 25-knot tailwind blew us dead downwind to Bahia Tenacatita at
seven knots, using only the jib. Just before sunset (on February
28th) we simply dropped the hook and it held firmly.
Tenacatita is an incredibly nice area. This scenic bay is very
away from it all. The only town is a twenty-minute dinghy ride away
- and it doesn't have much beyond basic sustenance items. A lot
of nice cruisers hang out in the large anchorage. At long last we
were reunited Jill and Brent, our friends on s/v Loncia. At Tenacatita
we had a pleasant social life in the middle of nowhere. Although
I went snorkeling five times, the visibility was rather poor (all
along the Mexican mainland I have been disappointed by the underwater
We took our dinghy up a narrow stream through a mangrove "jungle".
After a few miles of winding through a mangrove corridor the placid
stream curves Toward another bay that has a few motels and several
palapa cafes on the beach. These thatched-roof, sand-floored, cafes
are famous for tasty seafood rolls. The yummy rolls are cylindrical
a shrimp and fish cakes served with a nut cream sauce. We did this
jungle river trek on Friday because on Friday the local produce
truck parks by the palapa restaurants. We were able to stock up
on a variety of good, fresh fruits and vegetables for very little
money. A vegetarian's food bill would be next to nothing here.
Friday evening is also the silly, but fun, dinghy raftup/potluck
party. One person goes out in their inflatable dinghy and drops
an anchor; then about twenty more dinghies trickle in and tie up
to in a chaotic fashion to form a small undulating island of rubber
and hypalon. Everyone brings a beverage and hors d'oervres that
are passed around in a totally random pattern. Later we brought
Squiz to the raftup and introduced her; Squiz was a lethargic hit.
We have been borrowing and comparing compact kayaks that could
function as a form of escape and exercise. The hard shell kayaks
paddle well and have a dry compartment, but would be difficult to
stow on board. The inflatable kayak takes a hit in paddleability
(you sit too low) but they are nice and compact when deflated.
Return to Nuevo Vallarta
We eventually sailed back to Chamela for a few days, where I began
learning how to spearfish. Then a south wind started blowing and
enticed us to head northward, back to Nuevo Vallarta in the Bay
of Banderas. Of course the wind died shortly after we left Chamela.
But, once the weather gods were actually quite nice, as the wind
was calm as we motored north around Cabo Corrientes. I was particularly
grateful for the mellow conditions, because our autopilot had stopped
working in Tenacatita and we had to hand steer all night long.
Banderas Bay Regatta
Back in Nuevo Vallarta I worked on autopilot problems and we participated
as crew in the Banderas Bay Regatta. Alan crewed on Sabrosa, a J44.
Katherine and Amy crewed on Synergizer, an Ericson 28. On the first
race day both of both our boats sailed well.
Strangely, on the second day, both boats had the exact same mishap.
Thanks to high winds, we were beating to windward, heeled over,
with the rail in the water. The spinnaker turtle (sail bag) was
clipped to the rail; it filled with water, ripped, and went overboard
- sail and all. By the time we turned around and retrieved the water
laden sail, Sabrosa was in last place. Synergizer was a little quicker
and was able to fight their way back into fourth place.
During the third and last race, both Sabrosa and Synergizer excelled
and won their division. In the final tally, Sabrosa and Synergizer
placed third in their respective divisions.